Elastic woolen fabric



Jan. 23, 1940. R. GROSSER 2,188,133

ELASTIC WOOLEN FABRIC Fil ed May 26, 1937 FIEJ FIE.E

FACE BACK VIEW OF VIEW OF CLOTH CLOTH WARP DRAWN ON [2. HARNES i IN VENT OR.

' ATTORNEY.

Patented Jan. 23,

sins-no woomis ranalo Richard Grosser, West Englewood, N. 1., assignor of thirty-three and one-third per cent to William L. Morris, New York, N. Y.

Application May 26, 1937, ,Serial No. 144,913

4 Claims.

This invention relates to a new and improved in the manner described in the patent to Adamson No. 1,822,847, patented December 18,1931. This patent discloses an elastic yarn having a core of vulcanized rubber or latex composition held 10 under tension by left and right helical windings of yarn which form a cover for the core and hold the latter in a permanent elongated or stretched condition. It will be'obvious, however, from the following that elastic yarns other than those of the Adamson patent may be employed in ,the fabric of the present invention. More particularly my invention contemplates the structure of a weave composed of strands of woolen-worsted and elastic rubber yarn wherein the latter yarn is distributed in predetermined relation with the woolen-worsted yarn weft wise of the fabric in such a way as to bring out the elasticity of the fabric without disturbing the smoothness of the twill of the face of the fabric 25 so that it .will appear as a cassimere fabric on its face.

In other words, the problem solved by meais to so ,correlatethe stretch of the elastic yarn with the woolen-worsted yarn in the weaving operation that when the woven fabric is in its normal unstretched. condition, there-will be no tendency of the elastic yarn to produce a. crinkllng of the fabric or disturb its smooth diagonal. The prime object of my invention, therefore, 35 is to provide a new and improved woven woolenworsted fabric adapted for outer wear having a smooth faced surface and having elastic threads incorporated with the weft threads during the course of the weaving operation whereby the finished fabric, while inelastic in a warp wise direction, has a stretch or elasticity in a weft "wise direction.

Another object of my invention is to soweave a Woolen-worsted fabric adapted for outerwear 45 that when the woolen-worsted strands of the fabric have been set in the finishing of the fabric subsequent to the weaving thereof, the shrinking of the fabric, due to said finishing operation, will render said fabric smooth on both sides and 50 the fabric will have the appearance of a cassimere or worsted faced fabric with the added quality of stretchability in a weft wise direction.

Other objects and features of the invention will more fully appear upon reference to the accompanyins drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the front face of a piece of my improved fabric. 7

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the back of the piece of fabric shown in Fig. 1; the dotted lines indicat- 'ing certain face picks, and showing the manner in which'the picks of the back systems are covered and rendered invisible at theface of the fabric by the picks 50 indicated in dotted lines.

Fig. 3 is a view in cross section showing the interlacing of the first, left hand, warp thread of Fig. 8 with a number of the picks of the weft threads.

Fig. 4 is a view in cross section showing the interlacing of the fourth weft thread from the bottom of Fig. 8 with a number of the war threads.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4, showing the interlacings of the third pick from the bottom of Fig. 8. Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 4 showing the interlacings of the second pick from the bottom of Fig. 8. v

Fig. -7 is. a view similar to Fig. 4, showing the interlacings of the first, or bottom, pick of Fig. 8,

Fig. 8 is a twelve-hamess weaving dlagramof the fabric, in which the inelastic face picks, the inelastic back picks, and the elastic back picks are symbolically distinguished and enumerated.

The orders of filling and weaving by which the fabric is given its elasticity and by reaso of which the twill may be made to be and remain smooth and undisturbed throughout, and after all proper finishing pperations, despite the presence in 'the fabric of back systems which contract both on leaving the loom'and in the finishing operations, and despite all pulls incidental to the contraction of rubber threads, will now be described; it being understood that the elastic threads are under tension while being.

woven, and that the loom reed width. ashereinafter more particularly specified, is accordingly greater than that at which ordinary. non-- elastic fabrics of the same ultimate or finished width are woven. a

' Fig. 8' is the diagram for one complete repeat of the weaving order, the number of picks or filling threads therein being 28. Of these 28 picks, there are 20 face picks or filling threads 15, preferably of 2/36 worsted; 4 inelastic back picks l8, preferably of the same worsted; and 4 b0- I elastic back picks l1. ImFlgs. 3 and 8, a warp thread It is designated as the first or starting warp thread; and, in-Figs. '7 and 8, a thread l9, which is one of the threads it of the inelastic back system, is designated asthefirst or start- F ing pick. It will be understood, however, that provided the proper filling and weaving orders are followed, it is of no consequence which threads are elected to be shown and described as the starting points of the weave.

The filling order of the picks of the above mentioned three sub-systems is indicated. by the bracketing shown at the right hand side of Fig. 8. Reference to this will show that the face picks are laid in alternated groupings of 2 and 3, between the inelastic and elastic picks of the two back systems. In Fig. 8, a pick it of the inelastic back system is shown as the first pick. Then follows a group of 2 face picks. A pick I! of the elastic back system follows this gm!!! of face picks, to be followed in turn by a group of 3 face picks. Another pick 16 of the inelastic back system is then laid; and the same alternation continued.

In this specification and in the claims hereof,

it will be sufficient to describe the combined filling and weaving orders as the same affect any four successive warp threads, or for a. 4 harness weave. Elaboration thereof for the 12 harness weave of Fig. 8, or for any multipleof four will be understood by any one skilled in the art, and is in fact shown in Fig. 8. In the following description, therefore, the filling and weaving orders are described as for the four left-hand warps of Fig. 8. These orders are as follows:

' A pick IQ of the inelastic back picks I6 is laid 2 up-l down-1 up: then follows an inelastic face pick l5, 2 up-2 down: then follows an-.-

seven more picks in the filling order of 1 inelasticback pick; 2 inelastic face picks; 1 elastic back pick; and 3 inelastic face picks, as shown in Fig. 8; (see the bracketing in that figure."

This second order of seven picks, however, does not repeat the weaving order of the first seven; for, as will be. seen upon reference to Fig. 8, the inelastic back pick thereof, instead of being woven 2 up1 dow'n-1 up, as in the first seven, is woven 3 up1 down, and there is a corresponding rightward shift of the points of interlacement of the other picks of the second order of seven with the warp threads. Only after four of such orders of seven picks have been woven, and the fifth of such orders is reached, does there appear a filling order of seven picks in which the weaving order duplicates that of the first seven picks, above described. 'Ihe' complete repeat is therefore 28.

Throughout this repeat of 28, there is, viewed from one pick to the next succeeding pick, of the same system, a. progressive, one-warp, weftwise shift of corresponding points of interlacement of warp and weft.. In the drawing this shift is shown as a. rightward shift, to accord to the ordinary rightward incline of twill lines, but if woven isconsiderably greater than would be re quired for the weaving of an ordinary non-elastic fabric of the same desired finished width. For instance, for the weaving, according to the present invention, of a suiting'of standard 54" to 56" finished width, a good loom reed width would be 76" to '80". However, according to the degree of elasticity desired in the finished fabric, and for other considerations, the percent, degree or amount by which the loom reed width is to exceed the desired finished width of the fabric may vary within wide limits. It will be understood that to the degree the width of the loom exceeds the width of the finished fabric, the num ber of warp ends per unit of reed width may be decreased, without, however, affecting the total number of warp ends.

It will also be understood that the increase in loom reed width involvedin making my elastic fabric involves corresponding increase in length of the inelastic picks; and that as these contract with the elastic threads, they assume a degree of crimp not ordinarily found in inelastic fabrics. After the finishing operations, this crimp does not impair the appearance of the fabric, and it allows for the elastic stretch of the fabric under conditions of wear. a

The elastic and inelastic backpicks, at all points where they overlie and depress the warp threads, are themselves overlaid by adjacent face picks, so that the result is a smooth face weave in which no back picks are anywhere visible. Proper realization of this feature of the invention depends to some extent upon the. employment of proper finishing operations, hereinafter more specifically to be recited It is the novel weave. itself, however, which makes possible the success of such finishing steps. It will be noted from Fig. 2, (see. the dotted lines thereof), that throughout the length of the back picks the same are overlaid by adjacent face picks; such adjacent face picks being in contact with each other,

and each being shown bythe dotted lines 34 as overlying one half of the submerged back pick.

All necessary or desirable finishing operations here involved are old and well known, and need not here be described in detail. However. as above indicated, the system of weaves and' the weaving. order of placing different kinds of yarns, inelastic wool picks and elastic rubber picks, requires a special treatment in the finish-- ing, to set the texture, and to retain the permanent stretch, filling-wise, and at the same time give the fabric that smooth diagonal twill effect on the face, which is the important feature of this invention.

The raw cloth coming off the looms, for a 56" finished fabric, will measure about 72.5" wide. It should be carefully rolled on'the drum or cylinder of a crabbing machine, and all the yarn threads in the fabric fixed or set. It should then be scoured to remove the oil or grease content in the material. During this last operation, the

width will contract from three to four inches, giving additional stretch to the cloth. At the same time an adjustment takes place in the alignment and bending of the yarns in the weave;

with the result thatthe back picks will find the proper positions with respect to the picks of the face weave, with a closing up of the points of interlacing into a continuous twill effect, in which, as hereinbefore stated. the elastic picks are rendered completely invisible at the face of the fabric.

In any further processing, such as light fulling or dyeing or steaming, a further contraction of the texture, filling-wise, will take place, and more stretch thus obtained without disturbing the.

smooth face effect. Appreciable deviation from the above finishing operations is likely to develop defects, such as wrinkles, crepe effect, pockets or cockles.

I claim:

1. A wool-worsted, weft-wise elastically stretchable fabric, consisting of three systems of weaves, one system being a 2 up2 down face twill, another being a 3 up-1 down elastic back weave, and the third being a 3 upl down in.- elastic back weave, said systems being combined into a composite system having filling and weaving orders as follows: an inelastic back pick 2 upl down1 ,up, the next an inelastic face pick 2 up2 down, the next an inelastic face pick 1 down--2 up-- 1 down, the next an elastic back pick 1 down-3 up, the next an inelastic face pick 2 down2 up, the next an inelastic face pick 1 up2 down1 up, and the seventh an inelastice face pick 2 up2 down; said succession, to wit, one inelastic back pick, then 'two inelastic face picks, then one elastic back pick, and then three inelastic face picks, being indefinitely continned in a development of said weaving orders, in which development corresponding points of weft and warp interlacings, in each of said three systems therein, have a progressive one-warp shift in a comnion weft-wise direction, viewed from one pick to the next succeeding pick of the same system, for a repeat of the composite system in every 28 picks.

2. A wool-worsted, weft-wise stretchable suiting, consisting of three systems of weaves, one system being a 2 up2 down face twill, another being a 3-up1 down elastic back weave, and the third being a 3 upl down inelastic back weave, said systems being combined into a composite system having filling and weaving orders as follows: an inelastic back pick 2 upl down1 up, the next an inelastic face pick 2 up- 2 down, the next an inelastic face pick 1 down-2 upl down, the next an elastic back pick 1 down3 up, the next an inelastic face pick 2 down-2 up, the next an inelastic face pick 1 up2 down1 upyand the seventh an inelastic face pick 2 up2" down; said succession, to wit, one inelastic back pick, then two inelastic face picks, then one elastic back pick, and then three inelastic face picks, being indefinitely continued in a development of said weaving orders, in which development corresponding points of weft and warp interlacings, in each of said three systems therein, have a progressive one-warp shift in a common weft-wise direction, viewed from one:

pick to the next succeeding pick of the same system, for a repeat of the composite system in every 28 picks,and the elastic back picks, in the elastically finished suiting, at the points where they interlace with the warp and overlie the same, being covered by adjacent face picks, whereby to be invisible at the face of the suiting.

3. A wool-worsted, weft-wise elastically stretchable fabric, consisting of three systems of weaves, one system being a 2 up2 down face twill, another being a 3 upl down elastic back weave, and'the third being a 3 upl down inelastic back weave, said systems being combined into a composite system having filling and weaving orders as follows: an inelastic back pick 2 upl down1 up, the next an inelastic face pick 2 up2 down, the next an inelastic face pick 1 down-2 upl down, the next an elastic back pick 1 down-3 up, the next an inelastic face pick 2 down--2 up, the next an inelastic face pick 1 up2 down1 up, and the seventh an inelastic face pick 2 up2 down; said succession, to wit, one inelastic back pick, then two inelastic face picks, then one elastic back pick, and then three inelastic face picks, being indefinitely continued in a development of said weaving orders, in which development corresponding points of weft and warp interlacings, in each of said three systems therein, have a progressive one-warp shift in a common weft-wise direction, viewed from one pick to the next succeeding pick of the same system, for a repeat of the composite system in every 28 picks, and the points where the elastic .back picks interlace with the warp. and overlie the same being so distributed that in such a repeat no two of such points fall on the same warp end.

4. A weft-wise elastically stretchable fabric, consisting of three systems of weaves, one system being a 2 up2 down face twill and the other two systems being 3 upl down back weaves, one at least of which back systems is composed of elastic threads, said systems being combined into a composite system having filling and weaving orders as follows: a back pick 2 upl down-+1 up, the next a' face pick 2 up2 down, the next a face pick 1 down2 upi down, the next a back pick 1 down-=3 up, the next a face pick 2 down-2 up, the next a face pick 1 up2 down1 up, and the seventh a face pick 2 up2 down; said succes- 'sion, to wit, one back pick, then two face picks,

ceeding pick of the same system, for a repeat of the composite system in every 28 picks.

' RIC r GRO 1 *1 

